Perched on a small hilltop, the Mopan Maya village of SAN ANTONIO has the advantage of Bol's Hill Top Hotel (community phone 722-2144; US$10-15), which offers simple rooms and superb views, and is a good place to get information on local natural history and archeology. The area is rich in wildlife, surrounded by jungle-clad hills and swift-flowing rivers. Further south and west are the villages of the Kekchí Maya . The founders of San Antonio were from the village of San Luis, just across the border in Guatemala, and they maintain many age-old traditions, including their patron saint, San Luis Rey, whose church stands opposite Bol's hotel. The Maya also adhere to their own pre-Columbian traditions and fiestas - the main one takes place on June 13, and features marimba music, masked dances and much heavy drinking.