The 5km sandy road heading south from Hopkins is the "back way" to SITTEE RIVER village. Most visitors here are on their way to Glover's Atoll Resort , but there are a couple of places to stay, right on the riverbank. The great-value Toucan Sittee (tel 523-7039; US$15-25) is by far the best option; the bus stops outside. As well as comfortable rooms, there's dorm accommodation (US$8 per person) and camping space (US$2 per person). Meals are really good, with lots of fresh fruit and vegetables. Nearby, Glover's Guest House (tel 520-7016, glovers@btl.net ; US$15-25), where you check in for the Glover's Reef trip, has dorm beds for US$8 as well as double rooms. There's a restaurant on the riverbank and the boat to the atoll ties up outside. If you need to stock up on supplies for your trip to Glover's Reef the well-stocked Reynold's Store has groceries.