Red-and-black Tuasa buses from San José arrive on C 8, four blocks west of the Parque Central, amongst an inhospitable confusion of bus stops, supermarkets and shoe stores. Alternatively, the beige-and-orange Station Wagon Alajuela bus from San José drops you off on Av 4, just west of Parque Juan Santamaría, two blocks south of the Parque Central. If you're driving , take the pista to the airport (General Cañas Highway) then the turn-off to Alajuela, 17km from San José - don't use the underpass or you'll end up at the airport. For getting around, taxis line up on the west side of the Parque Central

Alajuela is a quieter place to stay than San José, and just 3km from the airport ; although there's not much choice, the hotels are of good standard. The small and cheerful Mango Verde hostel, Av 3, C 2/4 (tel & fax 441-6330, mangover@racsa.co.cr ; US$10-15), is an excellent budget option, with simple en-suite rooms, a communal kitchen and an attractive blue-walled courtyard. The friendly Hotel 1915 , C 2, Av 5/7 (tel 441-0495; US$25-40) is the town's best mid-range option: the comfortable and attractive rooms are arranged around an interior patio with rocking chairs and plants, and a delicious breakfast is included. Charley's Albergue on Av 5, 200m north and 25m east of the Parque Central (tel & fax 441-0115, www.isacam.com ; US$40-60), has eleven large clean rooms with private bath and hot water, plus a TV lounge and kitchen.

When it comes to eating , El Cencerro on the south side of the Parque Central is the only restaurant in town with any pretensions, serving succulent beef dishes for US$10-15. For sticky cakes, an extensive selection of coffees and good-value lunchtime casados , head for Ambrosia , Av 5, C 2. Lima de Antano , Av 3, C 2, is a friendly family-run Peruvian café with excellent seafood, while Bar La Troja , a ten- to fifteen-minute walk south from the town centre along C 4, is the only vaguely lively place in town, with a rooftop bar, relaxed atmosphere and decent music.

Moving on , fast and frequent Tuasa buses to San José and Heredia leave from C 8 between Av 1 and Central (but note that some buses marked "Alajuela-San José" go via Heredia rather than direct to San José - check with the driver). All other buses depart from the loose collection of bus stops just south of Av 1 between C 8 and 10, including regular services for Sarchí and La Guácima Abajo (for the Butterfly Farm). It's a confusing area, and the departure points are not well marked, so ask around to make sure you're waiting at the right place.