That the Arenal region attracts such huge numbers of tourists is largely due to the majestic Volcán Arenal , one of the most active volcanoes in the Western hemisphere. Just 6km away, LA FORTUNA DE SAN CARLOS , or Fortuna , as it is more often called, was until recently a simple agricultural town. Nowadays, true to its name, it's booming, with visitors flocking to watch the lava ooze down the lip of the volcano like juice from a squashed fruit.

Now very much geared to the tourist market, Fortuna is a curiously characterless place, although people are friendly enough. There's nothing to do except book tours, bed down and have a meal or a beer, and gaze at the volcano, looming 1633m above town. One popular excursion is to Fortuna's two cataratas (waterfalls), just 6km from the south side of the church in town and an easy day's hike (make sure to wear sturdy, waterproof shoes) or half-day horse ride. Fortuna also has excellent bus connections, making it one of the main setting-off points for tours to the remote wildlife refuge of Caño Negro and something of a transportation hub for the region as a whole.

Note that as Fortuna becomes increasingly popular, opportunistic theft is rising; never leave anything unattended, especially in a car, and be careful about walking around alone late at night. Also be wary of "guides" who offer their services on the street.