The spirited provincial capital of LIBERIA has a distinctively friendly and open feel, its wide clean streets and blinding white houses the legacy of the pioneering farmers and cattle ranchers who founded it. At present most travellers use the town simply as a jumping-off point for the national parks of Rincón de la Vieja and Santa Rosa , an overnight stop to or from the beaches of Guanacaste, or a break on the way to Nicaragua. It's worth getting to know it better, however, for Liberia is actually one of the most appealing towns in Costa Rica.

Sometimes called the " ciudad blanca " (white city) on account of its whitewashed houses, Liberia is the only town in the country that seems truly "colonial". It has everything you might need for a relaxing stay of a day or two - well-priced accommodation (although not much choice), a very helpful tourist office and a couple of nice places to eat and drink. This may all change, of course, if the nearby international airport ever starts delivering passengers in large numbers, but for now Liberia is still the epitome of dignified (if somewhat static) provincialism, with a strong identity and atmosphere all its own.

Liberia also boasts several lively local festivals , the most elaborate of which is on July 25, El Día de la Independencia , celebrating Guanacaste's independence from Nicaragua with parades, horseshows, cattle auctions, rodeos, fiestas and roving marimba bands. If you want to attend, make bus and hotel reservations as far in advance as possible. The last week in September, the Semana Cultural Liberia Ciudad Blanca , offers similar goings-on but without the wild patriotic revelry of July's celebration; there's no need to book buses and hotels in advance during this period.