The main guesthouse is the very accommodating Roxy's Mountain Lodge (tel & fax 767/448-4845, ; US$50-75), where spacious doubles feature attractive woodwork. Its small restaurant packs hearty picnic lunches and serves organic creole cuisine at night.

To reach Laudat, take King George V Street 2.5 miles inland from Roseau, until you reach a fork with signs pointing left. From here the road has brutally tight hairpin turns, some potholes and no guardrails - honk to signal your presence. There is also a sporadic bus (EC$3) which departs across from the Botanical Gardens on Trafalgar Road, every two hours after 6.30am; buses leave Laudat for the return trip about 45 minutes later. Taxis cost EC$70.