A mile south of Portsmouth, the decent doubles and bungalows at Coconut Beach Hotel (tel 767/445-5393 or 5415, ; US$75-100) face a long golden beach. More upmarket is the beachfront Picard Beach (tel 767/445-5131, tel 445-5599, ; US$130-160); its picturesque creole cottages come with verandahs and kitchenettes. Portsmouth's limited dining options include the pink-roofed Cabin , on Bay Road, the main drag, for fish and chips; Big Mama's , in the town centre two blocks inland, with fried chicken and curry shark; and the slightly more refined beachfront Blue Bay (tel 767/445-4985), for tasty mountain chicken and columbos.