On the northeastern tip of Parque Nacional del Este sits pueblo BOCA DE YUMA , for the most part passed over by tourism because of its lack of appealing beaches, though its setting along squat, ocean-pounded bluffs is undeniably impressive. Since Bayahibe has been so badly mangled by ill-conceived hotel construction, this has become the prime spot for independent travellers, with one great little hotel/restaurant and a nice enough beach across the river which you can reach via a RD$10 ferry.

The other major nearby attraction is fortified Casa Ponce de León (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm; RD$10), the home of conquistador Ponce de León located northwest of town in pueblo San Rafael de Yuma. He settled here after land was cleared and the locals slaughtered in the Higuey war of 1502-1504, and established an extremely profitable farm that provided Santo Domingo and the gold mines of San Cristóbal with cassava bread and salt pork. It's now maintained by the parks department, who have renovated the two-storey house into a museum meant to evoke de León's life and times. San Rafael is about 9km north of Boca de Yuma, so if you don't have a car use one of the hourly guaguas that ply the route between the two towns.

If looking for a place to stay , try El 28 (Calle Principe two blocks north of the waterfront, tel 809/476-8660; US$25-50), an Italian-run set of bungalows with hot showers and a swimming pool. The chef at the hotel's restaurant is the proprietor's 74-year-old mother, who makes home-made gnocchi and other traditional Italian dishes, plus melt-in-your-mouth fresh fish.