Despite its lush surroundings, in the pretty rolling hills and orange groves of the Cordillera Oriental, overcrowded Hato Mayor , 40km north of San Pedro de Macorís on Highway 4, is one of the poorest towns in the region and has little of interest for visitors. Most get only a passing glance anyway while taking Highway 103, the only paved road to Sabana de la Mar and Parque Nacional Los Haitises. You're unlikely to want to spend the night in Hato Mayor, but in a pinch you can head to Centenario , Mercedes/Hincado (tel 809/553-2800; up to US$25), the only formal hotel in town, with clean rooms and private bath but no hot water.

Sabana de la Mar is a dusty little port unremarkable but for its use as a setting-off point for the highly recommended boat tours of Parque Nacional los Haitises. It also happens to be fairly convenient to the Samaná Peninsula; ferries depart regularly from the wharf at the northern end of town (daily 11am & 5pm; RD$50). You won't really want to use Sabana de la Mar as a base for anything - the hotels are pretty substandard - but just east of the town (and close to the entrance of Los Haitises) is Paraiso de Caña Hondo (tel 809/556-7483; US$25-50), which has a small restaurant and a very nice set of rooms, plus a natural pool with cascades.