LA VEGA , just 30km south of Santiago, started out as one of Columbus's gold-mining towns. Aside from the ruins of this old settlement, La Vega Vieja , there's little in today's noisy, concrete city to hold your attention. However, La Vega's Carnival celebrations in February are generally acknowledged to be among the most boisterous and authentic in the nation. A twenty-block promenade is set up between the two main parks, along which parade platoons of demons in impressively horrific masks , the making of which is somewhat of a local specialty craft.

There are no good in-town hotels ; most lack even the most basic amenities like toilet seat, mosquito net or hot water. San Pedro , Cáceres 87 (tel 809/573-2844; up to US$25), is the least seedy and cleanest, but is still not especially comfortable. You'll fare slightly better with local restaurants , notably the second-floor Salón Dorado above Engini Car Wash, Cáceres and Restauración, which has a hip décor, fun crowd and pool tables. The bus stations, Caribe Tours (tel 809/573-3488), Metro (tel 809/573-7099) and Vegano Express (tel 809/573-7079), are all on the Carretera La Vega, just off the Autopista Duarte. Guaguas to Jarabacoa set off from the corner of 27 de Febrero and Restauración.