Quaint DESHAIES , Basse-Terre's most inviting village, lies a few kilometres up the coast, its wooden creole houses clasped around a deep harbour. The tempo here is so relaxed that the toughest part of your day may well involve deciding from which waterfront terrace to watch the sunset after lounging on GRANDE ANSE , Basse-Terre's longest beach, 2km north of town. To get there, follow the signs to Le Karacoli ; do not take the road signposted to Grande Anse - it's a rocky, unpaved mess.