Guadeloupe's original capital, LE MOULE , a short drive north of St-François on the N5, is hardly scintillating, though it does have a couple of decent beaches.You'll pass one of them, the sea-grape shaded L'Autre Bord , on your way in; the other, Plage des Baies , about 1km north of town, fronts a shallow bay ideal for young swimmers. The only other attraction is the underwhelming Amerindian archeology displays at the Musée Edgar-Clerc (Tues-Sun: April-Aug 10am-6pm; Sept- March 9am-5pm; ¬1.52), located past Plage des Baies on the right of the D123 towards Gros-Cap.