The first settlement north of La Traversée, quiet POINTE-NOIR owes its name to the dark volcanic highlands that encircle - and shade - its tangled streets. Some rays filter through to Plage Caraïbe , a gritty beach just south of town where a friendly dive outfit (tel 0590/99 90 95, fax 99 92 69) organizes outings to the depths around Îlets Pigeon and rents snorkelling gear.

The locals - known as Ponti-Néris - are renowned for their Arabica coffee beans; some perfume the grounds of the magnificently restored Caféière Beauséjour (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 10am-6pm; closed Mon in Sept & Mon-Thurs in Oct; ; ¬6.10), a plantation house with stunning sea views. Ponti-Néris are equally adept carpenters, and you can check out the tools of their trade and mahogany furnishings at the Maison du Bois (Mon-Sat 9.30am-4.30pm; ¬0.76), near the southern outskirts. Opposite is Guadeloupe's only campsite , the hospitable Camping de la Traversée (tel 0590/98 21 23, fax 98 25 23; up to US$25), with pleasant grounds, access to a pebble beach, and some casual, fan-only double bungalows with balconies and kitchenettes.