The first distinction in Guatemala is between the restaurant and the comedor . Comedores are basic eateries that serve simple food at cheap prices - expect to pay around US$2 for a good feed. In contrast, restaurants are a purely urban phenomenon, and more formal and expensive (US$4 a head and upwards). There are, however, plenty of restaurants with comedor-like menus, and vice versa.

In the larger towns you'll also find fast-food joints, modelled on the American originals and often part of the same chains. When you're travelling you'll also come across the local version of fast food: at junctions, buses are besieged by vendors offering a huge selection of drinks, sweets, local specialities and complete meals. Many of these are delicious but you do need to treat this kind of food with a degree of caution and bear in mind the general lack of hygiene.

In most towns there's some kind of pizzeria and a Chinese restaurant: they can make a welcome break from eggs and beans but don't expect anything very authentic. Cakes and pastries are also widely available but tend to be pretty dull and dry.

Vegetarians are hardly catered for specifically, except in the tourist restaurants of Antigua and Panajachel and at a handful of places in Guatemala City. It is, however, fairly easy to get by eating plenty of beans and eggs, which are always on the menu, accompanied by freshly made tortillas. The markets also offer plenty of superb fruit and snacks like tostadas and pupusas .