Maya cuisine is at the heart of Guatemalan cooking. Maize is an essential - in Maya legend, humankind was originally created from maize - and it appears most commonly as a thin corn pancake, the tortilla . The maize is traditionally ground by hand and shaped by clapping it between two hands then toasted on a comal , a flat pan of clay or metal placed over the fire. Tortillas are eaten while warm and are usually brought to the table wrapped in cloth. The very best have a slightly burnt, smoky taste and a pliable texture. Mexican-style tamales (steamed cornmeal often stuffed with meat, wrapped in a banana leaf) are not that common, but when you can get them are usually delicious.

Beans ( frijoles ) are served as they are in the rest of Central America, either refried ( volteados ) or whole ( parados ) in their own black juice. Almost all truly Guatemalan meals include a portion of beans. In the highlands you'll come across mosh (porridge) from time to time. To a lesser extent, chillies , usually served in the form of a spicy sauce ( salsa picante ), are the final ingredient in a Maya meal.

Combined with this essentially Maya culinary style, you'll find ladino-style food everywhere, often on the same menu. Bistek (steak), pollo frito (fried chicken) and hamburguesas are popular with all Guatemalans. Chiles rellenos (stuffed peppers) make a healthy change from other cholesterol saturated dishes and pepián (meat stew with vegetables) and caldos (meat broths) are usually excellent.

Popular market snacks include pupusas (thick tortillas topped with crunchy grated salad vegetables) and tostadas (corn crisps smeared with avocado, cheese and other toppings).

Finally, on the Caribbean coast there is a distinct Creole cuisine , heavily based on fish, seafood, coconuts, plantain and banana.