Antigua is laid out on the traditional grid system, with avenidas running north-south, and calles east-west. Each street is numbered and has two halves, either a north ( norte/nte ) and south ( sur ) or an east ( oriente/ote) and west ( poniente/pte ), with a plaza, the Parque Central , at the centre. Despite this apparent simplicity, poor street lighting and the lack of street signs combine to ensure that most people get lost here at some stage. If you get confused, remember that Volcán Agua, the one that looms most immediately over the town, is to the south.

Arriving by bus, you'll end up in the main bus terminal , a large open space beside the market. The street opposite (4 C Pte) leads directly to the plaza. The city is easy to get around on foot, but should you need a taxi you'll find one on the east side of the plaza close to the cathedral; alternatively you can call one on 832 0479. Mountain bikes and cars can also be rented.

The tourist office (daily 8am-6pm; tel & fax 832 0763) on the south side of the plaza dispenses reasonable if occasionally overcautious information. The tourist police (tel 832 7290) are just off the Parque Central on 4 Avenida Norte; officers escort visitors twice daily up to the Cerro de la Cruz, from where there's a panoramic view of Antigua and the surrounding volcanoes. Noticeboards in various tourist venues advertise everything from private language tuition to apartments, flights home and shared rides - probably the most read are those at Doña Luisa's restaurant, 4 C Ote 12, and the Rainbow Reading Room , 7 Av Sur 8. For tours of the city, contact Geovany at Monarcas, 7 Av Nte 15a (tel 832 4779, www.angelfire.com/mt/monarcastravel ), who looks at Maya influence on Antiguan architecture and also at the flora around the city, or Elizabeth Bell's Antigua Tours, at 3 C Ote 28 (tel 832 0140 ext 341, www.antiguatours.com ), for excellent historical walking tours of the town.

Antigua is also one of the most popular places in Latin America to study Spanish .