Some 42km south of Retalhuleu, a paved road runs to the beach at CHAMPERICO , which, though it certainly doesn't feel like it, is the country's third port. The town enjoyed a brief period of prosperity when it was connected to Quetzaltenango by rail, but there's little left now apart from a rusting pier. The beach is much the same as anywhere else, although its sheer scale is impressive (watch out for the dangerous undertow). Delicious fried shrimp and fish meals are widely available: try the Restaurant Monte Limar or the Alcatraz for fried shrimp and fish, or, for a treat, feast on paella at the Hotel Miramar (tel 773 7231) at 2 C and Av Coatepeque, which also has a fantastic wooden bar and dark, windowless rooms (US$5-10). Buses run between Champerico and Quetzaltenango every hour or so passing through Retalhuleu. The last bus for Retalhuleu leaves Champerico at 6pm.

Back on the highway, heading east, the next place of any size is the unremarkable town of Cuyotenango , where a side road heads off to the sweeping and almost undeveloped beach of EL TULATE . The surf is less dangerous here, and there's a handful of very simple fried fish 'n' shrimp cookshacks, but no hotels. Infrequent buses struggle down to El Tulate from Cuyotenango at weekends from Reu and Mazatenango.

The next stop on the highway is MAZATENANGO , another seething commercial town which also has a quieter, calmer side centred on the plaza. Maxim's , at 6 Av 9-23, serves excellent Chinese food and barbecued meats, or try Croissants Pastelería on the plaza for coffee and cakes. There are also a couple of cinemas, plenty of banks , a few run-down pensiones and, on the main highway, the decent, clean Hotel Alba (tel 872 0264; US$15-25), which has secure parking.

About 30km beyond Mazatenango is COCALES , a crossroads from where a road runs north to Santiago Atitlán, San Lucas Tolimán and Lago de Atitlán. If you're heading this way you can wait for a connection at the junction, but don't expect to make it all the way to Panajachel unless you get here by midday. The best bet is to take the first pick-up or bus for Santiago and catch a boat from there to other points on the lake. The last transport to Santiago Atitlán leaves Cocales at around 5pm.