Heading west beyond Boquerón, it's just 6km to the sleepy lakeside town of EL ESTOR . Allegedly named by English pirates who came up the Río Dulce to buy supplies at "The Store" of Lago de Izabal, it's an easy-going, friendly place which was briefly energized in the 1970s when a vast nickel plant flourished just to the west, but quickly settled back into provincial stupor when the commodity price plummeted. Though El Estor remains off the tourist trail, the completion of the paved road to Río Dulce has helped revive local optimism that the town can now capitalize on the vast eco-tourism potential of the surrounding area.

There's not a lot to do in El Estor, although it does have a friendly and relaxed atmosphere, particularly in the warm evenings when the streets are full of activity. Don't miss the pool in the plaza, which harbours fish, turtles and small alligators. You could spend a delightful few days exploring the surrounding area, much of which remains untouched - you can rent bikes at 6 Av 4-26. For tours , try Hugo at Hugo's Restaurant , or Oscar Paz, who runs the Hotel Vista del Lago and is an enthusiastic promoter of the area - he can arrange boats and guides to explore the surrounding countryside, plus fishing trips on the lake or visits to the hot springs at Finca El Paraíso .

Considering the size of the place, there's an excellent choice of quality budget and mid-range accommodation . The most atmospheric hotel is undoubtedly Hotel Vista del Lago (tel 949 7205; US$10-15), a beautiful, colonial-style wooden building by the dock, claimed by the owners to be the original store that gave the town its name; it offers clean rooms with private bath, with those on the second-floor boasting superb views of the lake. A block up, the Hotel Villela at 6 Av 2-06 (US$5-10) is a reasonable budget deal, with rooms, some with private shower, surrounding a pretty garden. On the east side of the plaza, the Posada de Don Juan (US$5-10) has large rooms with well-maintained bathrooms set around a grassy courtyard, while just north of the plaza, Hotel Central (tel 949 7244; US$5-10) has pleasant, clean, modern rooms, all with private bath and fan. For a really cheap deal, the Hospedaje Santa Clara at 5 Av 2-11 (tel 948 7244; up to US$10) has basic, clean rooms, some with their own shower. Finally, a kilometre east of the centre, in a prime, tranquil lakeside plot, the bungalows at the Hotel Ecológico Cabañas del Lago (tel & fax 949 7245; US$15-25) are comfortable, spacious and attractive - Hugo, the owner, will take you there if you drop in at his restaurant in the plaza.

For good inexpensive breakfasts and snacks try the clean and friendly Cafetería Santa Clave , three blocks west of the plaza at 3 C 7-75. For something a little more substantial head for Hugo's Restaurant , on the main plaza, for steaks and burgers, or the lakeside Restaurant Chaabil , though you'll pay extra for the location.