Most of the places listed here have a distinctive charm. There a few simple comedores offering inexpensive Guatemalan food, and most of the hotels also provide meals. Accommodation options are listed in the order you reach them from Puente Ixlú.

Camping Sal Itzá , 100m down a signed track opposite the lakeshore right at the beginning of the village. Simple stick-and-thatch cabins and camping on a steep hillside with lake views. Run by a very friendly family, headed by Juan and Rita, who cook tasty local food on request. US$5-10.

El Mirador del Duende , high above the lake, reached by a stairway cut into the cliff ( miraduende@hotmail.com ). An incredible collection of globular whitewashed stucco cabañas decorated with Maya glyphs, plus space for hammocks and tents. There's also a wonderful terrace overlooking the lake and a restaurant serving cheap vegetarian food. US$5-10.

La Mansión del Pajaro Serpiente , just below El Mirador del Duende (tel & fax 926 4246, nature@ietravel.com ). The most comfortable accommodation on the road to Tikal, with thatched, two-storey stone cabañas in a tropical garden and smaller rooms, all with superb lake views. Good food is also available, and there's a small swimming pool. The owners vary their prices according to demand, so it can be a bargain at quiet times of the year. US$15-60.

Hotel Ixchel , just off the Tikal road close to the junction. Simple but fairly comfortable wood cabins, run by a very friendly local family. US$5-10.

Casa de Bruno's Place , just past the Ixchel , at the junction. Four basic, functional rooms with shared bath, behind the village store. US$5-10.

La Casa de Don David , 300m beyond La Mansión , right on the junction (tel 306-2190, www.lacasadedondavid.com ). Comfortable, spacious and secure wooden bungalows and rooms with private hot-water baths, set in grassy grounds just back from the lakeshore. Owners David and Rosa Kuhn offer great hospitality and home cooking. David is a mine of information about Petén, and can change money, arrange trips, and sell bus tickets for Belize and Guatemala City; the staff know the times of local buses. There are usually a couple of bikes for guests to borrow. US$15-25.

Casa Mobego , 500m down the road to Cerro Cahuí on the right. Good budget deal right by the lake. Simple, well-constructed stick-and-thatch cabañas, plus camping, canoe rental, a good, inexpensive restaurant and swimming. US$5-10.

Casa de Doña Tonita , 800m down the road to Cerro Cahuí on the right. Four basic clapboard rooms, built high above the lake, with great views. The owner also runs a pleasant thatched-roofed restaurant next door with vegetarian food and snacks. US$5-10.

El Gringo Perdido , on the north shore, 3km from Don David's (tel & fax 334 2305, ecoadventure@mail2.guate.net ). Long-established place in a supremely tranquil setting offering rooms with bath, a mosquito-netted bunk, good-value basic cabañas and camping (US$3 per person). The restaurant is less impressive. Guided canoe tours available. US$10-40.