Altos del Cairo , first floor, 9 C 6-10, Zona 1. Raucous drinking den with simple bench seating, draught beer, and rock, pop and salsa nights.

El Establo , 14 C 5-08, Zona 10. Large, stylish European-owned bar with polished wood interior, good food and a soundtrack of decent jazz and Western music.

El Tiempo , Pasaje Aycinema, 9 C between 6 and 7 Av, Zona 1. Very lively bar in the heart of the historic centre that's a magnet for the city's bohemian youth, hedonists and thinkers, with sporadic musical jams, protest poetry readings and the like.

Kahlua , 15 C and 1 Av, Zona 10. Currently one of the most happening clubs in town with two dance floors and a chill-out room. Attracts a young crowd with a reasonable mix of dance and Latin pop.

La Bodeguita del Centro , 12 C 3-55, Zona 1. Large, left-field venue with live music, comedy, poetry and all manner of arty events. Free entry in the week; around US$4 at weekends. Definitely worth a visit for the Che Guevara memorabilia alone.

Las Cien Puertes , Pasaje Aycinena, 9 C between 6 and 7 Av, Zone 1. Funky, artistic bar in a beautiful run-down colonial arcade. Good Latin sounds, very moderate prices and some imaginative Guatemalan cooking. Recommended.

Sesto Senso 2 Av 12-81, Zona 10. Hip, lively bar-restaurant venue with superb menu of global food, plus great coffee and snacks, and often some live music in the evening.

Shakespeare's Pub , 13 C 1-51, Zona 10. Small basement bar with friendly staff, mainly catering to middle-aged expat North Americans.

Xtreme , 3 Av and 13 C, Zona 10. Industrial decor, with a dark interior full of steel and aluminium, plus a tooth-loosening sound system make this club one of the coolest places in town. The Latin dance, house and chart pop attracts a rich, young crowd.