There are several beautiful
walks
in the hills surrounding Nebaj, with one of the most interesting taking you to the village of
ACUL
, two hours away. Starting from the church in Nebaj, cross the plaza and turn to the left, taking the road that goes downhill between a shop and a comedor. At the bottom of the dip it divides: take the right-hand fork and head out of town along a dirt track. The track switchbacks up a steep hillside, and heads over a narrow pass into the next valley, where it drops down into Acul.
The village was one of the original so-called "model villages" into which people were herded after their homes had been destroyed by the army. If you walk on through the village and out the other side, you arrive at the Finca San Antonio, run by an Italian family who have lived here for more than fifty years, making some of the country's best cheese, which they sell at pretty reasonable prices.
A second, shorter walk takes you to a beautiful little
waterfall
, La Cascada de Plata, about an hour from Nebaj. Take the road to Chajul and turn left just before it crosses the bridge, a kilometre or two outside Nebaj. Don't be fooled by the smaller version you'll come to shortly before the main set of falls.