Continuing west from Raxrujá, trucks make the 90km journey over rough roads to PLAYA GRANDE (at least 6hr), the bridging point of the Río Negro. The town is an authentic frontier settlement with cheap hotels, rough bars and brothels. If you need to stay , the best options are the basic but clean Hospedaje Torre Visión or Reyna (both up to US$5).

One point of interest in this area is the Parque Nacional Laguna Lachuá , a beautiful little lake, 4km off the main road east of Playa Grande. One of the least visited national parks in Central America, this is a beautiful, tranquil spot, with a clear, almost circular lake completely surrounded by dense tropical forest. Though it smells slightly sulphurous, the water is good for swimming, with curious horseshoe-shaped limestone formations by the edge that make perfect individual bathing pools. You'll see otters and an abundance of birdlife, but watch out for mosquitoes. There's a large thatched rancho (shelter) by the shore, ideal for camping or slinging a hammock (available for rent). There are also canoes for rent and fireplaces and wood are provided, though you'll need to bring food and drinking water.

You can get to Playa Grande from Cobán on one of a stream of trucks and pick-ups which leave from the corner of the bus terminal in the early morning - a journey of around six hours. Heading south from Sayaxché you need to catch a bus or pick-up to Playitas via Cruce del Pato and take another pick-up or truck from there. There are also regular flights from the airstrip in Cobán.