Considering the size of Quetzaltenango, there's not that much going on in the evenings and the streets are generally quiet by about 9pm. There are a few bars worth visiting, however. At the popular Salón Tecón , on the west side of the plaza, you can down cuba libres , enjoy draught beer and great bar food, and listen to the latest sounds imported by the gringo bar staff. The more sedate but classy Don Rodrigo , 1 C and 14 Av, has leather-topped bar stools, more draught beer and good, but pricey sandwiches. Close to the Teatro Municipal is a cluster of hip new places including the bar El Zaguan , at 14 Av A and 1 C, Zona 1, and the club Bukana's , almost next door, for salsa and merengue. Of the clubs on the outskirts of town, the Music Center attracts a loyal young local clientele, while Loro's appeals to an older crowd.

Quetzaltenango is a good place to catch movies, with a number of cinemas , though you shouldn't have to stray further than the excellent Cine Paraóso on 14 Avenida A, near the Teatro Municipal, which shows a very varied selection of independent movies from all over the world, plus the odd quality Hollywood production. For theatre head for the refurbished Teatro Roma, also on 14 Avenida A, which often stages interesting productions. The Casa Verde (also known as the Green House ), at 12 Av 1-40 (tel 763 0271), has a lively cultural programme including theatre, dance and poetry readings, plus salsa nights at weekends. To find what's on in Xela, pick up a copy of the free listings magazine, Fin de Semana , available in many of the popular bars and cafós.