Banks and exchange Banco Inmobiliario, Banco del Occidente and Bancafé (with the longest opening hours: Mon-Fri 8.30am-8pm, Sat 10am-1.30pm) are all in the vicinity of the plaza and will change travellers' cheques. Banco Industrial, also in the plaza, has an ATM that takes Visa.

Bike and car rental Guatemala Unlimited, 12 Av and 1 C, Zona 1 (tel 761 6043), has mountain bikes for around US$6 a day; alternatively, try the Vrisa bookstore.

Bookstore Vrisa, 15 Av 3-64, opposite Telgua and the post office, has over 4000 used titles, plus a newsroom with Newsweek and The Economist , a message board, espresso coffee and bike rental.

Consulates Mexican Consulate, 9 Av 6-19, Zona 1 (Mon-Fri 8-11am & 2.30-3.30pm). A Mexican tourist card costs US$1. Hand in your paperwork in the morning and collect in the afternoon.

Email and Internet access There are at least a dozen places in Xela where you can surf the Net, including Maya Communications, above Salón Tecún in the Plaza Central; Casa Verde, 12 Av 1-40, Zona 1; and Alternativas at 16 Av 3-35, Zona 3 (all open until 9pm or later; around US$1.40/hr).

Laundry MiniMax, 4 Av and 1 C, Zona 1 (Mon-Sat 7am-7pm); US$2 for a full-load wash and dry.

Medical care Dr de León at the Hospital San Rafeal 9 C 10-41 (tel 761 4414) speaks English.

Photography For camera repairs try Fotocolor, 15 Av 3-25, or one of the several shops on 14 Av.

Post office At the junction of 15 Av and 4 C.

Telephone office The best rates in town are at Kall Shop, 8 Av 4-24 Zona 1, where calls to the USA and Canada are US$0.25 and Europe US$0.45 per minute. Maya Communications (see "Email and Internet access" above) is also competitive. You'll pay much more at the main Telgua office, 15 Av and 4 C.

Tours and travel agencies Adrenalina Tours, inside Pasaje Enríquez, Plaza Central (tel 761 0924, http://adrenalinatours.xelaenlinca.com ), offers city tours, daily transport to Fuentes Georginas and volcano climbing. Casa Iximulew, 15 Av and 5 C, Zona 1 (tel 765 1308, iximulew@trafficman.com ), runs organized trips to most of the volcanoes and sights around Xela. The Guatemalan Birding Resource Center, 7 Av 19-18, Zona 1 (tel 767 7339), offers excellent guided tours to the surrounding countryside. Guatemala Unlimited, 12 Av and C 35, Zona 1 (tel & fax 761 6043), is a good all-rounder with tours all over the country. Quetzaltrekkers, inside Casa Argentina , offers hiking trips to volcanoes and to Lago de Atitlán, with all profits going to a charity for street children.

Weaving For weaving classes contact the Ixchel school at 8 Av 4-24, Zona 1 (tel 765 3790).