CATACAMAS , situated midway along the Valle de Catacamas beneath the southern flanks of the Sierra de Agalta, is a much smaller version of Juticalpa, 41km away. Very few tourists come here - Catacamas marks the end of the paved road - which no doubt contributes to the affable, small-town charm of the place. It has a more spectacular setting than its larger neighbour: a short walk up to the Mirador de la Cruz , fifteen minutes from the centre on the northern side of town, gives superb views over the town and valley, and across to the Montañas del Patuca.

Buses terminate on the Parque Central, from where it's pretty easy to find your way around. The banks, post office and other essentials lie on the couple of streets north of the Parque, while most hotels are to the west. Of the very limited accommodation available, Hotel Colina , 1 Av SW, just down from the Parque (tel 899 4488; US$5-10), is by far the best, with reasonably comfortable rooms, all with bath, TV and fan, set round a courtyard. Almost next door, the Hotel Oriental (up to US$10) has a selction of basic but clean rooms, some with private bath, while the Hotel Rapallo (up to US$5), one block away, is spartan and dingy, but would do in an emergency. For eating , Restaurante Pollo Rico and El Riconcito Típico , both a block north of the Parque Central, serve unexceptional meat and chicken dishes, while the Buffet Ejectivo in the Parque scores for cheap buffet food.