Jamaica's second largest city, MONTEGO BAY nestles between the gently sloping Bogue, Kempshot and Salem hills, and extends some ten miles from the haunts of the suburban rich in Reading at its western edge to the plush villa developments and resort hotels of Ironshore and Rose Hall to the east. It's made up of two distinct parts: the main tourist strip Gloucester Avenue (rechristened by the marketing men as the "Hip Strip"), and the city proper, universally referred to as " downtown " - a split so sharp that most tourists never venture further than the dividing roundabout.

The "Hip Strip" wouldn't exist were it not for Montego Bay's prize asset: a dazzling bay with miles of coral reef (now designated a marine park) and some beautiful beaches. Much of the coastline has been snapped up by the hotels, but there are three main public beaches along the length of Gloucester Avenue, all with showers, changing rooms, snack outlets and watersports concessions and a minimal entrance fee. If you fancy a quieter day by the sea, you can head east of town to Ironshore, where the Caribbean Beach Park (Tues-Thurs 9am-6pm, Fri-Sun 9am-8pm; J$100) has a pretty swathe of white sand that's usually more or less deserted. There are changing facilities and showers, and a restaurant and bar; the huge grassy space out front is often used for stageshows. Shared taxis run here from Gloucester Avenue (J$40).