Past Hollywell, the scenery becomes more beguiling as you wind your way higher, with fantastic clear views over mountain gaps planted with neat rows of coffee. The next break in the trees comes at SECTION , a friendly little settlement that's home to several small-scale coffee farmers - it's a great place to both enquire about a local hiking guide and buy some coffee (a pound of beans should cost about J$300). The small shop can supply you with beers and snacks, and if you want cheap and very basic accommodation (around US$30), ask at the Dennis family's cavernous concrete house opposite. The road forks at Section; the left turn winds seven miles down to the north coast at Buff Bay, while turning right and to the east takes you, via several switchback turns, toward Silver Hill Gap , a stunning spot some 5000ft above sea level and offering awesome views across coffee-planted peaks. The Starlight Chalet and Health Spa (tel 876/969-3116 or 985-9380, fax 906-3075, ; US$50-75), is an isolated and extremely appealing hotel on a gorgeous flower-filled bluff. The rooms are modern and comfortable, with balconies and private bathrooms, and there's a sauna and steam room (US$25 per session); you can also have the full spa treatment including massage for US$70. Try the good, inexpensive Jamaican meals served up in the restaurant , which, like the attached bar, is open to non-guests; call ahead if you plan to eat. There are a couple of bicycles available for guests to use, and several short trails surround the property, one leading down the valley to a swimmable river; guides are available.