Delightful STE-ANNE , Martinique's southernmost village, seems almost blissfully unaware of the Club Med and hopping beaches nearby. The town itself revolves around two miniature squares: place Abbé Morland, at the north end, fronts a charming sandstone church, while place 22-Mé to the south hosts the bus depot. The two narrow roads that run between them are lined with comely two-storey houses that overlook a deep emerald-blue bay.

The friendly tourism office on the left side of the road as you head into town (Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, Sat until 3.30pm, Sun 9am-12.30pm) has heaps of information on what's doing in the area. There's a quality dive outfit, Kalinago (tel 0596/76 92 98, fax 76 95 38, kalinago@wanadoo.fr ), across the street with English-speaking instructors on hand. You can also check out the underwater action on the glass-bottomed Aquabulle that leaves the pier facing the town church in the morning and afternoon; the latter makes time for snorkelling (1-1.5hrs; ¬21.34-25.92).