EL RAMA is a major transit point to the Atlantic coast, though most travellers only stop long enough to change from the Managua bus to a boat for Bluefields, or vice versa. With a largely transient population, the town's truck-stop atmosphere is not endearing, and the dilapidation, heat and bugginess doesn't help. If you don't manage to make the connection on the same day, you'll have to stay over. Least frightening of the cheaper options is Hospedaje El Viajero (up to US$5), an old colonial house one block north of the dock, with dark and stuffy rooms, but fairly friendly management; the nearby Hotel Johanna (up to US$5) is even more basic but OK. The Hotel y Restaurante El Manantial (up to US$5), a couple of blocks beyond El Viajero , is slightly more expensive but quiet and safe.

Five daily buses for El Rama leave from the Mercado Mayoreo bus terminal in Managua; the bumpy journey takes about eight hours. The public ferry (US$4) service between El Rama and Bluefields goes out of service from time to time. When it is running, it leaves in the mid-morning on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. The trip can take five or six hours, so make sure you bring food and drink. A better bet is the high-speed panga which runs daily from 5.30am, although the schedule is a little confused - it appears to leave when full, but check at the dock. The panga takes two hours and costs US$9. An easier alternative is provided by the private bus company Empresa Vargas Peña (in Managua tel 280-1812, in Bluefields tel 822-1410), which offers a combined bus-and- panga service from Managua (Mercado Iván Montenegro) to Bluefields, leaving daily at 5am, 2.45pm and 9.30pm. All buses, except the 2.45pm which requires an overnight stop in El Rama, connect with a departing panga to Bluefields.