Set amid cool, lush mountains 34km north from Matagalpa, is the nondescript but pleasant town of JINOTEGA , famous for the coffee grown nearby. Many internacionalistas have been posted to Jinotega over the years, and the town has a friendly attitude toward strangers, though most travellers only stop here on day-trips from Matagalpa. It's worth coming to Jinotega simply for the ride, however, since the journey between here and Matagalpa is one of the most magnificent in the country, winding slowly up through misty green mountains, though the road is badly maintained.

If you get caught in between buses and have to stay , try Jinotega's friendly hostel, the Sollentuna Hem (up to US$10), five blocks north and two blocks east of the cathedral - it's popular with international travellers and has simple but homely rooms with private or shared bath. Another cheap and simple option is the Hotel Primavera (up to US$5), five blocks from the Parque on the main street, while closer to the centre the Hospedaje Tito (up to US$10), one and a half blocks north of the cathedral, has simple, spotlessly clean rooms. The cafeteria next door serves tasty gallo pinto breakfasts.