The largest town on Isle de Ometepe, MOYOGALPA is set on the northwest side of Volcán Concepción. The dock, where lanchas from San Jorge arrive, is at the bottom of the main street, a steep and narrow avenue lined by high pavements backed by hardware stores and agricultural supply shops. Occasional Land Rovers battle up and down the town's streets, their front axles hanging loose after too many potholes. Most transport in the town, though, is by tractor, or on rubber-wheeled, horse-drawn carts. Moyogalpa is home to many of Ometepe's services, lodgings and restaurants. There's no bank, but most shops, hotels and restaurants will change dollars . You can make calls and send mail from Enitel (Mon-Sat 8am-6pm) on the east side of the village.

Most of Moyogalpa's accommodation is pretty basic. Probably the most popular budget option is the Hotelito Aly , 100m uphill from the dock, on the left (tel 459-4196; up to US$10), a large hospedaje with 25 basic rooms with narrow and uncomfortable beds plus a plant-filled courtyard with hammocks and a restaurant. Across the street, Hotel Bahía (up to US$10) has basic rooms with worn beds (some also have scruffy bathrooms) - those upstairs are better, with narrow balconies and volcano views. A restaurant serves all meals and there's a bar and "disco room" for weekend parties. For something a little more civilized, try the tranquil El Pirata hostel (tel 459-4262; US$15-25), two blocks north and one east of the tourist office, which has spacious doubles with a/c and bath, and a relaxing courtyard. Moyogalpa's most upmarket place is the Hotel Ometepetl , opposite the docks on the right (tel 459-4276; US$15-25), which has large, very clean if soulless rooms with fans. The management is friendly, and there's a good bar, restaurant and car-rental service.

There are only a few decent places in town to eat . El Chele , 50m uphill from the docks, and Restaurante Ranchitos on the main street both serve good Nica food and are popular at weekends, while the family-run Comedor Familia and Soda El Chaguite , just around the corner from the Hotelito Aly , serve good-value and freshly prepared comida corriente throughout the day. Both the Hotel Bahía and Hotelito Aly have cheap and cheerful restaurants attached serving standard Nicaraguan breakfasts, lunches and dinners.