EYMOUTIERS, on the banks of the River Vienne, 45km from Limoges, is another attractive upland town of tall, narrow stone houses crowding round a much-altered Romanesque church . Not interesting enough for a prolonged stay, it nonetheless makes another agreeable stopover, especially for campers, as it has a simple but magnificently sited campsite , the St-Pierre-Château (tel 05.55.69.27.81; closed Oct-May), on top of a hill overlooking the town (access off the Meymac-Tulle road). If you prefer a hotel , you'll find simple rooms and good food in the rustic setting of the Hôtel des Touristes (tel 05.55.69.50.01; under 160F/¬24; closed one week in Nov & two weeks at Christmas; restaurant from 75F/¬11.43) back on the St-Léonard road in the tiny village of BUJALEUF .