Twenty kilometres west of Huedin, by road and rail, is the village of CIUCEA (Csucsa). Midway along the route lies BOLOGA , whose ruined fourteenth-century castle can be seen from the road and railway. There's a small private hotel , the Romanta (tel 064/251 585; under $6) by the highway, where you could break your journey and take a two-day hike from Bologa to the Padis plateau. At the east end of Ciucea village is a museum (Tues-Sun 10am-5pm) dedicated to the poet and politician Octavian Goga . Goga bought the house of the Hungarian poet Endre Ady , who lived in the village until 1917, and had a sixteenth-century wooden church from Galpâia brought here in order to preserve it. Later still Goga's own mausoleum was built in the grounds. In Ciucea, the Pension Caprioarea on the main street (tel 064/259 059; $10-15) is good value.