The closest of the inland towns to Vitória is DOMINGOS MARTINS , 42km away on the north side of the Belo Horizonte highway. Confusingly, it has two names: Domingos Martins is the most common, but Campinho is also used. The drive there from Vitória manages to pack a remarkable amount of scenery into a very short distance - sit on the right-hand side of the bus for the best views. Almost as soon as the bus leaves the city limits the road starts to climb into the highlands, and very quickly presents wonderful views of hills and forest. Almost completely surrounded by steep hills, Domingos Martins is high enough to be bracingly fresh by day and distinctly cold at night; it looks like a run-down German mountain village, with its triangular wooden houses modelled after alpine chalets.

Get off the bus at the first stop in the town, rather than continuing to the Rodoviária. The cheapest accommodation is the Hotel Campinho near the bus stop ($10-20), but if you continue the few metres to the immaculately manicured main square there's a wonderful hotel, the imposing Imperador, Rua Duque de Caxias 275 (tel 027/268-1115; $20-35 half board), built in German style. It's superb value for the quality of accommodation, with very comfortable rooms and a small pool.

There's not much to Domingos Martins, just a small museum, the Casa da Cultura , almost opposite the bus stop at Av. Presidente Vargas 520, which has some old documents and artefacts dating from the colony's early days after it was founded by Pomeranians in 1847. If you're into flora, it's well worth the hassle getting to the Reserva Kautsky (tel 027/268-1209), some way out of town and accessible only by four-wheel-drive, which has an extensive collection of orchids and camellias - ask at any hotel for details. The main pastime in Domingos Martins in decent weather is walking in the surrounding forest and hills; ask at the Casa da Cultura for details and maps of possible itineraries.

In the centre of town, near the Casa da Cultura, is a very good and inexpensive por kilo restaurant , Tia Ria, with a buffet featuring a large variety of German- and Italian-influenced dishes, as well as more familiar Brazilian ones. For the authentic German-Brazilian culinary experience, the Restaurante Bigosch (open Wed-Sun), at Ladeira Francisco dos Santos Silva 50 near the Casa da Cultura, is good and reasonably priced, while for enormous and excellent high teas, try the Kaffeehaus Germânia at Av. Presidente Vargas 874, opposite the post office. There's a good selection of jams, preserves and biscuits on offer at the town's Prefeitura-run Casa do Artesanato, all produced by local colonos, or smallholders.

When it's time to move on , you can take any Belo Horizonte-bound bus and get off in Venda Nova.