The crisp slate of Chablis, chardonnay with attitude; Auxerre’s cathedral and Vézelay’s basilica, linked by the Nivernais canal’s tow path; Epoisse’s cheese, whose perfume you recognize in the pastures of wild flowers....
Two nights in Dijon, once capital of its own country, still among France's prettiest cities (Grey and Poupon , it turns out, were two guys who ran mustard shops on opposite corners). And a day in between to explore the vineyards of Nuits Saint-Georges and Beaume.
Your Itinerary
Day 1:
If you have subscribed to our “Access Package,” or are on a through trip, meet in the morning at our Paris office for the trip to Burgundy. Saddle the bikes, head for the station, and train through the Seine valley to the railway junction of Laroche.
The trip assembles in Laroche, from whence an afternoon ride on country lanes brings us to the vineyards of Chablis, and to the village of the same name. Maybe time for a tasting before dinner? Those unable to catch the morning train will have the option of a midday service, with a shortened ride in the afternoon.
35 k
Day 2:
Dash into Auxerre for a visit to this pretty cathedral city, an important canal port (most traffic now pleasure boats), and home to one of France’s perennial contenders in the football (soccer) championships.
Then along the Yonne Valley, following the Nivernais canal tow paths. Admire flowered locks, and dust chubby, sunburned tourists on rented barges as we head to our night stop in a country village.
Baggage.
40 - 50 k
Day 3:
A beautiful riding day, along water courses and on country lanes lined with hedgerows. The valley we follow becomes narrower and more picturesque, and we occasionally climb out of it for views from the hillside. In the afternoon, leave the river, and head to the Basilica in Vézelay, one of France’s best-preserved Romanesque structures, and a real treasure. Our usual hotel tonight is in the charming Vallée du Cousin, below ramparted Avallon.
55 k
Day 4:
Start the morning with a look around the fortified town. Old houses, pretty gardens, 16th-century ramparts are the highlights. Then it’s off across the Morvan plateau. Geographically, you are not far from the scenes of your first riding days. But what a difference! Tiny stone villages huddled in hollows, expansive vistas, little woods, wheat fields... and not much else.
If you reach Montbard in time, consider tacking on a visit to Fontenay Abbey, on the edge of town. With buildings dating from the 1100`s to present, it provides a capsule of Burgundian architectural and historical progression.
60 k
Day 5:
A challenging day, including a monster hill to the top of one of France’s “continental divides” (we find that if people have this knowledge in advance, it helps keep them focused). A little train can shorten things, or shave off the top of a hill, for those not into the struggle.
The day begins with an idyllic ride along the banks of a canal. Then up and down a couple of optional mountains, just to keep you busy. The first, Mont Auxois, was the site of Vercingétorix’s last stand: Caesar besieged and captured the famous Gaul here, thus sealing for centuries the Roman domination of what became France. The second has a seminary and a candy factory on top of it. So most people find something to keep them interested.
Finally, up the monster hill, and down the other side to the Burgundian capital. Pretty views and imposing cliffs line our road as we spiral down to the valley floor. Stop for a swim in Lac Kir on the way into town.
Dijon is one of France's most interesting cities. It is the gastronomic center of Burgundy, and thus a perfect cap to our route. The region’s three most famous products are well-displayed: mustard, cassis (black currants), and snails. Mix and match them according to taste. Visit the old town, the medieval Cathedral, the Palace of the Ducs de Bourgogne. Or perhaps hunt down a wine tasting. What you don’t have time for now, you can visit in the morning: tomorrow is a short day. One of our usual Dijon hotels dates from the 17th century (the courtyard and the plumbing both give it away).
Baggage
90 k
Day 6:
Our last day in Burgundy carries us into the grape greenery at the heart of the Burgundy wine region. Cycling through the vineyards is one of our favorite pastimes. As you get used to it, you start to feel the special rhythm of this unusual agricultural domain. We pass through Marsannay-la-Côte, Fixin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, all along “La Route des Grands Crus” on our way to Nuits-St.-Georges. If these names seem familiar, it is because you can find most of them on any great restaurant’s wine list.
After a climb to a ridge above the valley for a spectacular view of the whole hillside and the Saône River basin, we pass into the southern half of this famous wine-producing region and to the center of the Burgundy wine trade, Beaune. Get there in time to visit the 15th-century hospital or the wine cooperative, have an aperitif on one of the town’s pretty plazas, and then head back to Dijon by train for a final celebratory meal. Baggage
Friday night is spent in Dijon by passengers travelling on with us, and also as part of the the trip “Access Package.” In either case supper, and an ongoing train to one place or another, is also included.
45 - 70 k
Notes:
Airfare is not included in the tour price.
Departures 2008: June 22, Aug 3.
Bike rental is included!
Single occupancy supplement: $295
Also see tour packages in:
Europe
France
Bicycle Touring
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