Peak Pobeda overranges all the other peaks of the majestic Tien Shan range with more than 400 meters. Together with its broad an complex built it makes for one of the most awesome sights in the mountains. The peak was already scaled in the thirties of the last century by Soviet climbers. But it was not known until the spring of 1943 that they had actually scaled the highest peak of these Northern mountains. In 1943 the Soviet team again succeeded in reaching the summit and this time it's got its name under which it is still known: Peak Pobeda, meaning "victory peak".
It is a highly dangerous, exhausting and technical mountain to climb. Sometimes it’s called “ the coldest mountain on earth". Actually it is one of the northest 7000+ peaks on the globe and most routes up it come from the West and Northwest. All these factors add an extra difficulty to climbing it. A frightening number of, mostly Russian, mountaineers lay down their lives on this ridge. This bad reputation made that not very many parties have visited the mountain during the last 10 year, and less experienced climbers stay away with it.
Route description
The most often climbed route, coming from the Southwest involves many kilometers of a mixed and broken ridge which is all situated above 7000 meter. Advanced bace camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 metres where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km at the altitude above 7000m) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.
Your Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel
Day 2: Transfer Bishkek–Karakol (390 km), accommodation in hotel
Day 3: Transfer Karakol–At-Jailoo BC (2750m), accommodation in the lodge
Day 4: Ascent to any peak about 4000-4500m for acclimatization. Overnight in the lodge. Preparation day
Day 5: Helicopter flight to the base camp at 4050m Preparation for climbing Pobeda Peak
Day 6: Climb to the camp ¹1 - 4600m
Day 7: Climb to the camp ¹2 - 5300m
Day 8: Climb to the camp ¹3 - 5700m
Day 9: Climb to the camp ¹4 - 6400m
Day 10: Descent to the camp ¹1 - 4600m
Day 11: Descent to the base camp
Day 12: Rest day
Day 13: Climb to the camp ¹1
Day 14: Climb to the camp ¹2
Day 15: Climb to the camp ¹3
Day 16: Climb to the camp ¹4
Day 17: Climb to the camp ¹5 - 6900m
Day 18: Climb to the camp ¹6 - 7100m
Day 19: Ascent of summit and descent to the camp ¹5
Day 20: Descent to the camp ¹3
Day 21: Descent to the camp ¹1
Day 22: Descent to the base camp
Day 23: Additional day in case of bad weather
Day 24: Additional day in case of bad weather
Day 25: Helicopter flight to Karkara and transfer to Issyk-Kul Lake. Overnight in hotel
Day 26: Free day at the lake. Overnight in hotel
Day 27: Transfer to the airport. Departure
Notes:
Airfare is not included in the tour price.
Price includes:
- transfer Airport/Railway Station in Bishkek – hotel - Airport/Railway Station in Bishkek
- transfer Bishkek – Karakol – Karkara/At-Djayloo and back
- helicopter flight Karkara/At-Djayloo – BC at Yuzhny Inilchek and back
- accommodation at hotels in Bishkek and Karakol breakfast included
- lunch on the way Bishkek to Karakol
- accommodation and full boarding at Karkara or At-Djayloo
- accommodation and 3 times a day boarding at BC “South Inylchek“
- usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“
- permit to frontier zone
- registration with local authorities (obligatory) and visa support (if necessary)
Also see tour packages in:
Asia
Kyrgyzstan
Mountain/Rock Climbing
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