The Agrafa ("unwritten places") is one of the most remote and underdeveloped areas in Greece, indeed in all of Europe. It earned its name by successfully keeping the Ottoman tax collectors at bay throughout the Turkish occupation, thus remaining unregistered on the Sultan's charts. Their fiercely independent spirit is matched by a harsh and forbidding landscape: the central Agrafiotis river valley is surrounded on three sides by a steep 2000-metre wall of mountains, and on its south side it drains via a series of narrow and often impassable gorges into the man-made Lake Kremasta.
Your Itinerary
Day 1:
Travel from Athens to Krendi and short walk.
Early in the morning meet and transfer by private A/C bus to Karpenisi. Lunch in tavern. Bus or minibus to Krendi village. Walk through and around the village. Krendi is still quite lively and you may be interested by meeting with honey producers or some of the last women still weaving at home. Dinner and overnight in guesthouse Makkas.
(D)
Day 2:
Krendi to Monastiraki (5 hrs).
Leaving the asphalt road, we enter the Agrafa region and all together we walk down through Varvariana, crossing the Agrafiotis. We make our way uphill to the village of Monastiraki, where Christos will give us a warm welcome; our host and his wife run the tiny café where we enjoy yet another copious dinner. Only one bathroom for all of us with no hot water, but the warmth of the welcome is worth a try Monastiraki used to shelter a thousand inhabitants but is now home to only three families, still very hospitable to accommodate passing guests. Dinner and overnight at Christo’s and Maria’s home.
(B) (L) (D)
Day 3:
Monastiraki to Epiniana (5 to 6 hrs).
A long and rewarding day. We start from Monastiraki and walk uphill for a last panoramic view over the village. Above the Agrafiotis and down to the river, we will decide for an optional trip up the metre-wide “Apatito” (untrodden) gorge, swimming and walking (1 hr round trip). After the lunch and a deserved break, we start the ascent to reach the highest hamlet Anifora (which means uphill). In Epiniana, a good rest on the main square-terrace as we overlook the other side of the valley where we will go in the next days. Dinner and overnight at a family run pension.
(B) (L) (D)
Day 4:
From Epiniana, walk along Asprorema gorge on mulepath built onto (and into !) mountainside (2-3 hours), continue along streambed (more chances to swim) Stop at the riverside for a pic-nic and siesta. Option walk to a nearby hamlet, where the last permanent inhabitants of this remote valley live with neither road access nor electricity. Return by the same way to Epiniana Dinner and overnight.
(B) (L) (D)
Day 5:
Epiniana to Agrafa (4 hrs)
Walk down to the Agrafiotis river on a narrow path (2 hrs). Walk across and along the riverbed to Tripa gorge with its deep pools and natural showers (some wading, 1 hr); lunch and siesta here. Walk up to Agrafa village uphill (path and dirt road). Dinner and overnight at a family run pension.
(B) (L) (D)
Day 6:
Around Agrafa (4 hrs 2 hrs optional climb).
From Agrafa, walk along old mulepath to Koukouroutzos Col. We may wish to reach the summit of Koukouroutzos (1723 m), which overlooks Agrafa and will allow us to have a last and general round view of our hiking days. Dinner and overnight in Agrafa.
(B) (L) (D)
Day 7:
Local transfer from Agrafa to Krendi and from Krendi we take the private bus back to Athens. End of trip.
(B)
Notes:
Airfare is not included in the tour price.
Dates:
June 2-8
August 11-17
Also see tour packages in:
Europe
Greece
Outdoor: Land Rambler
Hiking & Trekking
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