There's a limited range of restaurants in Yamaguchi, with most of the options being clustered along Eki-mae-dori and the Komeya-cho arcade. The local dish is the freshwater fish ayu , and many shops also sell uiro , a glutinous sweet made from pounded rice, a supposed favourite of the ruling Ouchi clan six hundred years ago.

Churamu . Head two blocks south of Yamaguchi Station and hang north to find this cosy café specializing in cheap pasta and curry dishes. The wooden interior and local art add some character to the place. Open daily 11am-8.30pm.

Ikoi , Eki-mae-dori. Shokudo serving a decent range of Japanese staple dishes, including fish. The plastic food display outside will help you choose from the menu. Daily 10am-10pm.

La Francesca , 7-1 Kame-yama. Top-class Italian restaurant attached to the hotel that does excellent-value pasta lunches for either ¥1200 or ¥2200. Daily 11am-10pm; sometimes closed Sat & Sun lunchtime.

Shiva , Eki-mae-dori. Small Indian restaurant opposite Yamaguchi Station, serving a good set lunch for ¥800. Also open in the evenings (5-9pm).

Xavier Campana , 5-2 Kame-yama. Mouthwatering bakery and restaurant, serving a wide range of breads, cakes, salads and a mixture of European cuisines, including German-style dishes, fondue and pasta. The bakery is open daily 9am-8pm; the restaurant for breakfast 8am-10.30pm, and for lunch and dinner 11.30am-9pm.

Yamabuki . There are a couple of outlets of this inexpensive and authentic noodle operation, one east off Eki-mae-dori, the block before the arcade, and the other north of the arcade, near the crossing with Route 204. The shops are identified by their traditional wooden exteriors, and bowls of tempura, udon or soba cost as little as ¥470. Daily 11.30am-5.30pm.