On the way to Anglesea from Torquay, you can make a short but worthwhile detour to Addis Point ; turn left just beyond Bells Beach. The road goes right out to the headland where, from the car park, you look down on the waves crashing onto the point. Steps lead down to an even better vantage point, with surf heaving below you and Bells Beach stretching to the northwest.

ANGLESEA itself is a perfectly pleasant place for a holiday, with the Anglesea River running through to the sea, and picnic grounds along its banks. Despite tourist development, the beach has managed to retain its sand dunes and its untouched aspect. Children can swim safely here, as the surf is fairly gentle, but the waves are high and powerful enough for body-surfers to enjoy. Anglesea's main claim to fame is a large population of kangaroos , which graze on its golf course. The small Anglesea Backpackers Hostel on 40 Noble St (tel 03/5263 2664, www.angelsea-backpackers.com.au ; dorms under $20, rooms $35-50), located between the river and the golf course, has small dorms and an en-suite double. Mountain bikes are available to hire ($10 per day), and the owner arranges lots of activities: surfing lessons (2hr; $30, gear included), snorkelling, spotlighting tours at night, horse riding, mountain bike tours in the bush and trips to Torquay. Phone for a pick-up from the bus stop.

From Anglesea the road goes inland for a few kilometres through scrubby bush. Beyond, a pretty white lighthouse with a red cap overlooks the small town of AIREYS INLET . There's little more than a general store here (which sells heavily discounted fuel) and the Aireys Inlet Caravan Park opposite (tel 03/5289 6230 or free call 1800 66 88 66, www.aicp.com.au ; cabins $50-115). Airey's By the Light , on the way out of town (tel 02/5289 6134, www.tourvic.com.au/accommodation/aireys.htm ; $90-150), offers more upmarket B&B accommodation with private decks and stunning sea views, in keeping with the huge and ritzy houses that jostle for ocean views on the way to Lorne. A little further down the road in FAIRHAVEN , the small Surfcoast Backpackers (tel 03/5289 6886 or 0419 351 149; dorms $20-35) has very clean en-suite dorms and a cosy kitchen/common room with a piano. The hostel is located in a prime location, 100m away from the main road and the long, sandy Fairhaven Beach, which is patrolled. The owner books horse rides through the bush and along the beaches. Ask the bus driver to stop at the Yarringa Road bus stop - there's a signpost on the Great Ocean Road pointing towards the hostel.