BOLTON ABBEY , five miles east of Skipton, is the name of a whole village rather than an abbey, a confusion compounded by the fact that the place's main monastic ruin is known as Bolton Priory (Mon-Thurs & Sat 8.30am-7pm, or dusk if earlier, Fri 8.30am-4pm; free), founded here in the 1150s. Turner painted the site, and Ruskin described it as the most beautiful in England, though the priory is now mostly ruined; only the nave, which was incorporated into the village church in 1170, has survived in almost its original state. The priory is the starting point for several highly popular riverside walks, including a footpath that follows the river's west bank to take in Bolton Woods and the Strid (from "stride"), an extraordinary piece of white water two miles north of the abbey, where softer rock has allowed the river to funnel into a cleft just a few feet wide. Beyond the Strid, the path emerges at Barden Bridge , four miles from the priory, where the fortified Barden Tower was another little restoration job for Lady Anne Clifford; there's a tearoom here.

The Wharfedale Wanderer summer bus service calls at Bolton Abbey, or take a taxi from Skipton (around £8 each way). At Bolton Abbey the main accommodation is the sumptuous Devonshire Arms (tel 01756/710441; £150-200), just south of the village, owned by the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. The restaurant is very expensive, though there's an informal, moderately priced brasserie and bar open to the public too. Considerably easier on the pocket is B&B at Holme House Farm , a quarter of a mile south of Barden, overlooking the river (tel 01756/720661; no credit cards; under £40). Barden Bunk Barn , right by the tower (tel 01756/720330) is a useful bunkhouse (reserved for groups only at weekends). Bolton Abbey Tea Cottage , next to the priory offers traditional afternoon teas.