Though no inoculations are required for travel in Bulgaria, embassies advise visitors to check that they've been vaccinated against diphtheria, tetanus, typhoid and hepatitis A, and recommend that anybody planning to spend a lot of time walking in the mountains be inoculated against tickborne encephylitis. However, most visitors suffer nothing worse than diarrhoea or sunburn, so stock up on preparations like Diocalm before you leave home, and protect yourself with a good sunscreen. While salads and fresh fruit are quite safe, it's risky to eat grilled snacks in provincial restaurants with a slow turnover. Tap water is safe to drink in all parts of the country.

Minor complaints can be solved at a pharmacy or Apteka , but if you require a doctor ( lekar ) or dentist ( zâbolekar ) head for the nearest Poliklinika or health centre, whose staff might speak English, German or French, and will almost certainly understand Russian. Urgent cases go to hospitals ( bolnitsa ) courtesy of the bârza pomosht or ambulance service (tel 150 in most towns, service free), and emergency treatment is free of charge although you must pay for medicines . Although Bulgarian physicians are well-trained and competent, the equipment, facilities, auxiliary staff and aftercare in hospitals falls well below the standards to which Westerners are accustomed, so it's best to fly home in the case of anything serious.

Bear in mind that many pharmacies are not as widely stocked as at home, so you should bring with you a supply of razor blades, favoured brands of contraceptives and tampons, not to mention any specific medication that you require.

Bulgaria has a strong tradition of herbal medicine (though none, curiously, of homeopathy), and most towns will have a Bilkova apteka or herbal pharmacy offering a wide range of natural remedies. However, you'll need to speak Bulgarian, or enlist the help of a native speaker, if you want to understand what you're being offered.