Although the value of the lev is now determined by market forces, it remains a non-convertible currency, unavailable in banks outside Bulgaria. Inside Bulgaria, you can change money in banks, tourist offices, at reception desks of the bigger hotels, and at private exchange bureaux. There's usually a slight difference in the rates offered, with private bureaux offering the most generous terms - though beware of hefty commission charges, usually written in very small print so you don't notice initially. Hotels offer the worst exchange rates, and should be avoided unless absolutely necessary.

Bulbank is the biggest of the high street banks , with branches in most Bulgarian towns. Opening hours are usually Monday to Friday 9am-4pm. Private exchange bureaux are usually open until 5 or 6pm (longer in summer), and sometimes 24 hours. Wherever you change money, it makes sense to request a receipt ( smetka ) - which can, in theory, enable you to re-exchange surplus leva for hard currency at the frontier before leaving, but don't depend on it. You can usually buy US dollars (and, on occasion, DM and sterling) from bureaux with your excess leva, but the exchange rate may be disadvantageous.