Bulgaria is stuffed full of vegetable plots and orchards, and fresh fruit and vegetables are half the secret of Bulgarian food. In the villages, almost all the food comes straight from the land and is organic or free range, as few people can afford pesticides or chemical fertilizers. In the towns, however, 45 years of collectivized agriculture and catering have conspired to impose a certain conformity on restaurants, and the high quality and range of cooking you'll experience as a guest in a Bulgarian home is still rarely reflected in the country's eating establishments.
Grilled meat
dishes predominate everywhere, and, despite the wide range and quality of the vegetables available,
vegetarians
may well be frustrated by the lack of animal-free options. Though the newer restaurants tend to offer more variety, menus remain pretty unimaginative, with a limited choice of dishes on offer. There is, however, an increasing variety of
street food
available, although traditional Bulgarian pastries and snacks are often a bit too stodgy and greasy for Western tastes.
In big towns and coastal resorts,
food shops
(
hranitelni stoki
) are reasonably well stocked with useful domestic picnic ingredients such as fresh bread, cheese (
kashkaval Vitosha
is made from cow's milk;
kashkaval Balkan
from ewe's milk), sausages (
pastārma
is a spicy beef salami;
sudzhuk
a flat home-cured sausage), smoked leg of ham (
pushen but
) and dairy products, as well as tinned goods, packet soups, conserves and chocolates imported from Greece or Turkey. In rural areas, food shops are much more sparsely provisioned, with shelves lined with jars of Bulgarian jam, packets of dry biscuits, and little else. Instant
coffee
is usually vile, and
tea
is either Chinese or herbal, so it's wise to bring both if you're planning on self-catering.
Fresh fruit and veg is best bought in the outdoor
markets
(
pazar
) which you'll find in most towns and villages. Here smallholding peasants from the outlying districts sell whatever produce is currently in season, as well as herbs, nuts, sunflower seeds, dried fruit and pulses. Many towns also have old-style, municipally run
indoor markets
(
hali
), though these tend to be sad, half-abandoned affairs with little to offer. Ad hoc street stalls often sell foreign produce such as bananas, coffee and chocolate. City-centre
bakeries
tend to produce fresh bread (
hlyab
) throughout the day. In smaller towns and villages, shops selling bread stand empty for much of the day, until an arbitrarily timed delivery attracts queues of shoppers.
Breakfasts, snacks and street food
Traditionally, food was eaten in the fields or pastures, or consumed on returning home - which meant subsisting on bread, cheese, vegetables and fruit throughout the day until an evening meal of stew or grilled meat. Nowadays, people eat rather less...
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Restaurants and meals
Although
restaurants
(
restorant
) vary widely in terms of decor and service, it's rare to find any cuisine but Bulgarian, outside of Sofia, and the
range of dishes
can be pretty limited - in some cases the waiter will...
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Vegetarians in Bulgaria
Traditional Bulgarian cuisine excels in
vegetable dishes
; the snag is trying to find places that serve them. Vegetarian restaurants (
vegetarianski restorant
) used to exist in most major towns, but began to lose their appeal in the...
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What to eat
If you're looking for nothing more than a quick and inexpensive stomach-filler, most restaurants serve filling
soups
accompanied by copious amounts of bread.
Bob
, a spicy bean soup,
shkembe chorba
or tripe soup, and
...
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Drinking
Private enterprise has vastly increased the number of
places to drink
, and all town centres now have a healthy sprinkling of
kiosks
serving coffee, soft drinks and basic snack food, usually with plastic chairs and tables on the...
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