The step-pyramid architecture of ALBENA 's hotels marks it out as one of the more architecturally inventive of Bulgaria's purpose-built resorts; it's also the most efficiently run, the cleanest, and by far the most expensive. It's an attractive, if a little sterile-looking place, with well-tended flowerbeds and lawns lying behind an extensive and usually crowded beach, lined with bars and kebab stalls, while the range of activities on offer here is second to none. Bordering the resort to the south is an area of swamp-like semi-submerged forest known as the Balta ; access to this alluring landscape is via the asphalted track to the Gorski Kât restaurant.

Albena is bypassed by the main road, but well served by minibuses from Varna (departing from a stop 200m west of the Cathedral) and buses from Balchik. Arriving at the terminal at the eastern end of the resort, you'll find a small tourist bureau (daily 8am-11pm; tel 0579/62920 or 62152). Here you can get rooms in any of the resort's forty hotels , with prices ranging from US$35 per person in the two-star places, to US$55 per person in the best of the beachside establishments, most of which are patronized by German tour groups, with standards of comfort and service to match. Albena also has a good campsite (off the entrance road to the left) with well-shaded areas for tents, and ensuite four-person bungalows, some of which have self-catering facilities (US$15-25 per person). If you're keen to stay in Albena, it's worth ringing the resort's marketing department (tel 0579/62090, fax 62575, ) in advance - independent travellers will be given a significant reduction on the walk-in rates quoted above.

Food and drink in Albena are among the most expensive in Bulgaria and, unless you periodically escape to neighbouring Kranevo or Balchik, this may not prove the inexpensive holiday destination you anticipated. There are plenty of alfresco restaurants, bars and cafés along the resort's main thoroughfares and beside the beach, most catering to the German package tourists: individual recommendations are impossible, though, as things change from one season to the next.

Albena boasts at least five sailing and windsurfing schools strung out along the beach, offering boat and board rental from about US$5 per hour, as well as week-long courses (around US$100 for fourteen hours' tuition). There's also a scuba-diving centre, with prices starting at US$20 for an introductory session, and US$100 for a week-long course. The resort's riding centre is currently the best in Bulgaria, with twelve hours of tuition costing around US$100, and a variety of rides (ranging from one-hour "gallops" to day-long picnics) laid on for all abilities.