Four buses a day run east from Troyan to APRILTSI , a large village nestling in the Vidima valley. It covers a wide area, with the suburbs of Vidima and Ostrets spreading many kilometres into the side valleys which fork away from the centre of the village. Buses from Troyan terminate in Ostrets, 3km southeast of the centre, so it's best to ask the driver for "Apriltsi", ensuring that you'll be put down somewhere on the main street, ul. Vasil Levski, where you'll find the tourist office at no. 102 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; tel & fax 06958/3249, doncho_turs@infotel.bg ). Here you can pick up hiking advice and maps, and book one of a number of pensions or private rooms (US$9-18-US$18-36), most of which offer half- or full-board for a few extra dollars. The family-run Tihiya Kât   hotel in the suburb of Ostrets (tel 06958/2102 or 3363, tihia-kat@infotel.bg ; US$9-18) is probably the swankiest accommodation option, featuring a stylish open-air swimming pool, while the Dr. Tsurov (tel 06958/2436; US$18-36) is in the centre of Apriltsi, has its own restaurant and a pleasant garden courtyard as well as an outdoor pool; half or full board is available at extra cost.

The main trail-heads for hikers start 5km out from the centre, at the southern end of Vidima, where a right fork in the road leads to the head of the Stârna valley 6.5km away, while a left fork heads up the Lyava Vidima valley, passing the Vidima   chalet after another 3km, then petering out 4km further on. Either spot serves as the jumping-off point for paths to the Pleven   chalet , a steep one-hour climb further south. The forbidding terrain of the main Balkan Range lies immediately beyond, although you'll need a guide hired through the Apriltsi tourist office to make full use of it.