Near the turn of the century, Prince Ferdinand of Bulgaria built three villas and a hunting lodge among the aromatic pine woods covering the northern slopes of Mt Musala, a mile above sea level. The Mamrikoff family - after whom a verb meaning "to steal from an exalted position" was coined - and other wealthy folk did likewise, founding an exclusive colony, Tchamkoria, from which BOROVETS has developed. Effectively nationalized for the benefit of union and Party members in 1949, Borovets became a major winter sports resort in the 1960s, and is now largely geared towards package tourism. Lifts to a number of beginners' and intermediates' slopes are stationed right in the middle of the resort, so in terms of convenience, Borovets has got a lot going for it. It is also a popular place for Bulgarians to escape the heat during July and August, but pretty quiet during the intermediate months before and after the skiing season.

Competitively priced package holidays ensure that you get lodgings, skiing equipment and tuition - none of which is assured if you just turn up on spec. Also, most package operators offer lift-passes and "ski packs" (including equipment rental) for a lower cost than you pay on the spot, making package holidays even more worthwhile.

Modern Borovets is a rather artificial place, with the monstrous Hotel Rila acting as its main point of orientation. You'd be well advised to escape to the mountains as soon as possible unless asphalt walkways lined with souvenir stalls are your cup of tea. The one worthwhile sight in the resort is the Bistritsa Palace (Tues-Sun 9am-noon & 12.30-4pm; US$3), fifteen minutes' walk northwest from the Hotel Rila along the Malyovitsa road. A rambling whitewashed mansion with carved wooden balconies, it was built as a hunting lodge for Tsar Ferdinand (who entertained Kaiser Wilhelm of Germany here in 1913) and used by his son, Boris, before passing into the hands of Bulgaria's Communist elite, and back again to Ferdinand's grandson, Simeon of Saxe-Coburg Gotha. The interior is decorated in a mix of High Victoriana and Samokov woodcarvings, and bristles with animal heads and pelts, while heraldic lions crown the lampposts outside.