On the first Sunday in August, musicians from all over the region get together to blow their
gaidi
, at
MUGLA's
annual
bagpipe festival
. A speciality of the Rhodopes, the huge, deep-voiced
kaba gaida
accompanies singing or plays dance music, alone or in concert with other bagpipes, and Mugla's festival is a rare chance to hear the awesome sound of
Sto kaba gaidi
- one hundred of them playing together.
Mugla can be reached by a side road starting between Teshel and Gzhovren (the last village before the Trigrad Gorge), or by
hiking from Trigrad
(4-5hr). The trail from Trigrad begins as a dirt track by the farm buildings across the bridge between the chalet and the village. It soon leads to a karst plateau where you bear right along a path onto a ridge with drinking fountains to rejoin the track and follow it as far as a highland meadow, where a cart track to the left and then a forest path provide a short-cut to a sharp bend in the dirt track. Here you turn right and follow it down to a tarmac road in the Lividitsa Valley, running past the lakeside beauty spot of Livadite. Follow the pylons beyond the final lake till you reach a fork in the trail, and head right uphill to arrive in Mugla thirty minutes later.