In the valley below the monastery, ROZHEN , a workaday village of whitewashed, vine-shrouded houses with rickety wooden balconies, is in many ways more authentic than neighbouring Melnik. You can enjoy traditional food and local wine on the terrace of the Hanche Rozhen , on the edge of the village towards Karlanovo. If you feel like staying, there are plush apartments at the Complex Rozhena (tel 07437/211; US$9-18-US$18-36), uphill from the road out of the village, which also has a shaded café-restaurant and an outdoor swimming pool.