From Ahtopol the coast road heads south through a forest thick with Strandzha oak, before dropping down to cross the reed-shrouded River Veleka . On the opposite bank stands the windswept hilltop settlement of SINEMORETS , a village that until 1989 was out-of-bounds to outsiders due to its proximity to the Turkish border. Since then it's been discovered by beach-hoppers, and wealthy city-dwellers building seaside villas and second homes. It's a strange mixture of bucolic village and building site, the kind of place where expensive cars trundle down the dirt tracks that serve as streets, and imported drinks are doled out from hastily erected shacks. Sinemorets's new-found fame rests on its two beaches : the south beach, accessible by a track which leads eastwards through the village towards the headland before veering south, is a dazzling expanse of fine white sand bordered by rocky promontories. It's the kind of place that attracts younger, liberal-leaning Bulgarians - bathing nude here will hardly raise an eyebrow. More spectacular still is the beach to the north, a kilometre-long sand bar that slows the progress of the River Veleka towards the sea. Framed by low green hills, it's one of the most beautiful spots on the Black Sea coast.

There are three daily buses from Ahtopol to Sinemorets, although it's possible to walk the 6km that separates the two if you're not weighed down with luggage. Almost all the houses in Sinemorets offer rooms - just ask around or knock on a few doors. There are a few modern hotels to choose from: the Villa Philadelphia (tel 05563/2984 or 2986, ; US$18-36) is a cosy modern place which arranges guided birdwatching tours of the Strandzha National Park, while the Sinyata Akula , otherwise known as the Blue Shark (tel 05563/2783; US$9-18), is a well-regarded family pension with TV and fridge in every room. Closer to the beach is the Domingo (tel 0556/2193; US$9-18), which also has a few triples (US$18-36) and studio apartments (US$18-36). All have their own restaurants .

From Sinemorets it's another 10km south to the village of Rezovo on the Turkish border, though it's not possible to cross the frontier here.