There are only two settlements of any size on the south side of Burgas bay: Kraimorie , a naval town serving a big base on the nearby peninsula of Aitia, and Chernomorets , a small beach resort with a neatly manicured park, numerous private rooms and a campsite, the Gradina , located on the beach to the south. Both towns are served by hourly buses on the Burgas-Sozopol route, but it's better to press on to the small fishing port of SOZOPOL , the favoured resort of Bulgaria's literary and artistic set since the beginning of the last century, and popular with German and Eastern European package tourists since the 1970s.

An engaging huddle of nineteenth-century houses on a rocky headland, backed up by two fine beaches , scores of bars and restaurants, and a lively promenade , Sozopol is fast overtaking Nesebâr as the coast's prime attraction. Slightly incongruously, its harbour also serves as one of Bulgaria's chief naval bases, with ranks of gunboats anchored off the neighbouring island of Sveti Kirik.

For the first ten days of September, Sozopol hosts the Apollonia Arts Festival , comprising classical music, jazz, theatre and poetry, and frequent open-air pop concerts take place throughout the summer. Be warned that finding accommodation can be difficult in July and August, when the tourist season is at its height.